More of us now care where our beans come from. A new story from Indonesia's Arfak Mountains shows how a cup of Arabica can support farming communities and protect forests at the same time, and it has a lot in common with what's happening in our own highlands.
Closer to home
The Philippine coffee market is projected to grow by 14.26% by 2027. In the northern highlands, indigenous Igorot farmers grow heirloom Arabica varieties such as Typica, Bourbon, San Ramon and Mondo Novo alongside pine trees and shade crops, an approach that keeps both the coffee and the landscape healthy.
Coffee that was almost cut down
In the Arfak Mountains of West Papua, 1,800 to 2,000 meters above sea level, the cool climate and fertile soil are ideal for Arabica. Coffee grows there without chemical fertilizers or synthetic pesticides. Yet before 2018, most farmers had only one or two trees and treated them as ornamental plants. Some were even cut down to make garden tools or Christmas decorations.
"Some were even cut down because they were considered to have no value," said Barto Inden, 28, who works at the Arfak Mountains Regency Agriculture Office and owns the brand Kopi Anggi.
Protecting the land
The shift came as land clearing, heavy rain and illegal gold mining upstream raised the risk of landslides. Growing coffee through intercropping, and without land burning, helps hold the soil together and protect water catchment areas.
Since 2019, local organization Bentara Papua has worked with farmers on:
- Community nurseries using local seeds and compost
- Organic fertilizers made from pig manure, decayed leaves and kitchen waste
- Botanical pesticides made from garlic and local leaves
- Post-harvest steps such as sorting, flotation, 36-hour fermentation, washing and solar drying
"We did not bring a finished system. We learned together with the community from their own gardens," said Demius Aud of Bentara Papua's Udohotma Station.
The payoff
Today, Arfak coffee involves 37 farmer groups across seven districts and about 35 hectares of coffee in home gardens. Farmers are paid in cash directly at production sites, with no middlemen. Green bean prices have risen to around IDR 80,000 to 100,000 (about ₱280 to ₱350) per kilo, and annual production is estimated at 6,000 kilograms.
Sold as Kopi Anggi, the coffee has reached cafés in Manokwari and buyers in Poland, Germany and the Netherlands, though supply stays limited to protect quality.
Why it matters
Whether it's from Benguet or Arfak, the takeaway for coffee lovers is the same: when you choose beans that are traceable and sustainably grown, more of your money supports the farmers and the forests behind your morning cup.
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